Which Breed Produces the Most Tasty Ibérico

I had heard from several sources in Spain, including breeders in Spain that a 100% pure bred Cerdo Ibérico is not the best source for Ibérico de Bellota ham. That sounded counterintuitive to me.

So, through Jamie, head of La Tienda's office in Spain, I had an enlightening conversation Antonio Gázquez Ortíz the other day about what breed makes the best Jamón Ibérico.

Antonio is a man of extraordinary breadth. A department head at the University of Extremadura at Caceres, he is a research scientist, renowned gastronome and devoted father.

More to the point, he is perhaps the world leading authority concerning Jamón Ibérico. (You can read about him in an update I wrote for La Tienda entitled "The Professor of Jamón". 

His reply is that there are some companies, including industry leader Sánchez Romero Carvajal in Jabugo, Huelva that do raise pure 100% Ibérico hogs. There are other brands that include ham products sourced from "cruzados” (meaning 75% Cerdo Ibérico and 25% Duroc). The law requires a clear distinction. You can say Ibérico 100% Puro or Ibérico Cruzado. To be a cruzado it must be at least 75%.

The 100% Ibérico Puro has a lot more fat, and therefore is very flavorful. Señor Vázquez pointed out that a 100% Ibérico requires about one more year in the bodega, extending the curing time to up to 40-42 months. He cautioned that extra time curing in bodega translates to a much higher cost.

Personally, Antonio prefers to eat a cruzado. He believes that the meat has a more enjoyable flavor.